 |
Bonifacio Old Town Guide |
There are two routes into Bonifacio's Old Town, which is fully encircled by the citadel walls. Access by foot from the marina is via the steep Montee Rastello and Montee St-Roch steps (next to the Eglise St-Erasme) then through the Porte de Genes (Genoa gate) at the top.
There are some stunning views from the Montee St-Roch steps across the cliffs. From here the impressive Grain de Sable limestone sea stack can be seen.
Alternate access is via the Porte de France (vehicle access). A little tourist train also runs in summer from the marina (costs 5 Euros).
Things to See
Porte de Genes
Until the Porte de France was built in 1854, this was the only way to enter Bonifacio's citadel. The drawbridge was operated via a weights and pulley system installed in 1598 and the mechanism still operates today.Bastion de L'Etendard & Memorial du Passe Bonifacien
To the right of the Porte de Genes, on Place d'Armes, is the Bastion de L'Etendard - the only surviving part of the fortifications destroyed in the 1553 siege by the French/Turk alliance. Inside is a small museum, Memorial du Passe Bonifacien, with a reproduction of the prehistoric 'Dame de Bonifacio' skeleton and models illustrating some of the town's history. It costs 2.5 Euros to enter the Bastion and museum, which also allows you to walk over the battlements and access the tiny Jardin des Vestiges garden. There are some great views over the harbour, town, cliffs and mountains from the Bastion.Rue des Deux Empereurs
This road was the citadel's main street during Genoese occupancy. The emperors Charles V and Napoleon I lodged in houses on this road in 1541 and 1793 respectively, their visits now commemorated by plaques (the buildings are not open to the public). From this road several arched alleys form aqueducts to collect rainwater.Eglise Sainte Marie Majeure
This is the main church of Bonifacio, dating from the 12th century (Pisean), modified on numerous occasions and restored in the 18th century. In front of the church is the Loggia, the arches under which the 'podesta' (local government) used to meet. The church is built on an underground cistern (now used as a conference/exhibition room) which was fed from the flying buttresses on the roofs of the town. This cistern provided Bonifacio with water during times of siege or drought.Rue du Palais-de-Garde
Running alongside the eglise Ste-Marie Majeure, Rue du Palais-de-Garde is one of Bonifacio's most attractive streets, with enclosed arcades and double-arched windows. The oldest houses had no doors on the ground floor, for protection from attacks. The occupants instead used ladders which they pulled up behind them.Il Torrione (Rue des Pachas)
A 35-metre lookout tower on Rue des Pachas , built in 1195. This is the only remaining part of the Tuscan citadel.Escalier du Roi d'Aragon (King Aragon Steps)
Legend has it that these 187 steps carved into the limestone cliff face were built by the Aragonese in a single night in their failed attempt to gain the town in 1420. The steps however actually existed before this and were probably used by locals to carry water to the citadel from a well discovered by monks. Open daily 11am to 5.30pm June to September. Go early to avoid the crowds and heat. A great experience and well worth the effort. Admission 2.5 Euros.
The Bosco
The Bosco (names after a wood here in the 10th century) is the Quarter right on the end of the promontory on which the Old Town is built. There is a Marine Cemetery (Cimetiere Marin) here, built on the site of the old convent of St-Francis (of which only the restored late 14th century convent remains). The cemetery is an interesting place to visit, with wonderful views and overly-ornate mausoleums and tombs. Military barracks are also found here - once home to the French Foreign Legion Parachute Regiment, until they relocated to Calvi in the 1980s.Eglise Saint-Dominique
At the entrance to the Bosco, Eglise Saint-Dominique is a rare example of a Gothic-style church in Corsica, built in the late 13th/ early 14th centuries, on the supposed site of an earlier temple. It houses various reliquaries carried in processions though Bonifacio town in religious festivals. Admission 2.5 Euros.
Shops
Bonifacio has a great selection of chic boutiques. In the Old Town, souvenir and jewellery shops are interspersed amongst the ancient houses, bars and eateries. Bonifacio's coral is renowned for its deep red colour.The Old Town is interesting place to wander around shopping for gifts, although bear in mind some shops can be very expensive.